“From Adire to Ankara” Symposium Explores Decolonizing Textile Traditions in Nigeria
On Monday, June 30th, scholars, artists, curators, and cultural practitioners gathered at Reed Hall, University of Exeter, for the symposium “From Adire to Ankara: Decolonizing the Study of Material Cultures in Northern and South-Western Nigeria.”
This half-day event formed part of the ABU–Exeter Atlantica collaboration and explored the dynamic textile traditions of the Hausa-Fulani and Yoruba people, with a focus on challenging colonial legacies and reasserting indigenous cultural narratives.
A Deep Dive into Cultural Identity Through Fabric
The symposium addressed the shared yet distinct textile traditions of the Hausa-Fulani and Yoruba peoples—two groups whose rich cultural expressions through fabric have long been vehicles for storytelling, spirituality, and social identity. From indigo-dyed Adire cloths of the Yoruba to the intricate hand-woven and embroidered cottons of the Hausa-Fulani, the event offered insights into how colonialism disrupted these practices and redefined them through a Western lens.
Speakers at the Forefront of Cultural Reclamation
Key contributions included:
Dr. Zainab Bello (Ahmadu Bello University, Zaria), who examined the colonial impact on Hausa-Fulani textile traditions. She highlighted the diminishing role of wax prints in conveying traditional folktales and how this has contributed to a fading sense of indigenous identity.
Professor Peju Layiwola (University of Lagos & Mellon Curatorial Fellow, Stanley Museum of Art, University of Iowa), who discussed the historical and cultural significance of Adire in Yoruba society. Drawing from both academic research and her personal artistic practice, she emphasized the importance of reclaiming and recontextualizing textile heritage in contemporary art.
Oyindamola Faithful (Executive & Artistic Director, Centre for Contemporary Art Lagos), who reflected on the work of the Àsìkò Art School, a pan-African experimental learning initiative that merges indigenous knowledge with contemporary art practices. Faithful emphasized how Àsìkò encourages artists and curators to root their practices in local knowledge systems while engaging global discourses.
Honouring Jean Trevor’s Legacy
The symposium also paid tribute to Jean Trevor, marking 50 years since her passing. Trevor’s work with Hausa girls and young women in the 1960s and ’70s was revisited through a special archival display curated by Exeter archivist James Downs. The Jean Trevor Archive, held in the University of Exeter Special Collections, documents key aspects of life in post-colonial Nigeria—from education and agriculture to costume, culture, and gender roles.
Decolonizing as Practice, Not Theory
Participants agreed that reclaiming textile culture is not just about restoring lost practices, but actively resisting the epistemic violence described by Ngũgĩ wa Thiong’o as the “cultural bomb.” Discussions emphasized that decolonization must extend into pedagogy, curatorial practice, and community engagement.
This gathering of minds not only celebrated Nigeria’s vibrant textile heritage but also reignited important conversations around identity, history, and autonomy in African cultural expression.
